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Day 80 30.03.05
SENEGAL again

Said goodbye to Sulayman after an early morning walk to see the Egyptian Plovers, which obligingly posed for photos.

Egyptian Plover

Border crossing no problems apart from Customs man not familiar with Carnet and filled in exit part rather than entry! We decided to make straight across Senegal for the Mali border. The road was good. It was also good not to be stopped by the police, customs or army every few kilometres as we had been in Gambia.
It is always slightly puzzling in different countries to know who wants you to stop. We learnt on the previous Senegal visit that the blue uniforms (customs) are not interested in us.
Having not been able to use the internet café the night before due to power cuts, we found a good connection in Tambacounda, filled up with fuel, and bought some fresh fruit including a kilo of Mangos. It was amazing to be able to achieve all that in a short time in a 100 yd stretch of one small African town!
We also bought some more mossie killer. The last one blew up when it caught on something in the drawer in the back of the Land Rover. Alerted by the loud hissing Michele opened the drawer and the can shot out, cartwheeling past her, having covered the contents of the drawer in insecticide!

As we had sweltered all day we thought we would reward ourselves with an air-conditioned room in a hotel. (Individual hut style) We appeared to be the only guests. The air con was intermittent due to power cuts but was very welcome. We made good use of the beautifully clean, tiled bathroom and emerged squeaky clean.

Hotel reception

Day 81 31.03.05
Mali

Left Hotel and set off on an excellent tarmac road for Mali border. Usual formalities and hurdles of finding police, (hiding up a side street in the town and dealing with a bus load when we arrived but very efficient) and customs before exiting Senegal in Kidira. Customs man concerned to find exit on Carnet already stamped by previous confused customs man, but gave him an excuse to request a small "cadeaux" which helped him overlook this and we were on our way over the bridge to Mali.

A smooth entry with officialdom Mali style and we crossed the Tambacounda to Bamako railway

More direct by rail

to take the piste to Kayes. (most folk don't drive, they take the train)! However the road is under construction and eventually became smooth tarmac before becoming piste again as we entered the town.

Kayes is said to be the hottest town in Africa and we believe it!

Kayes

We needed some cash so we parked optimistically outside the bank. Sadly their machine was broken and they advised us to go to the bank 'just the other side of the market.'

African markets are great. The stalls are always very close together and you have to dive in and squeeze through. It was amazing they could offer fresh looking veg in that heat (heading for the 50 deg). (actually it was amazing they could sit there at all!)(actually it was amazing that we could walk around). We popped out the other side and wandered around melting until we saw a bank. Banks have air conditioning so are a good place to go in and sit down. Sadly it was the wrong bank and didn't seem to offer the possibility of getting any money. We sat there for a while anyway, chilling out.

The interesting thing about the banks in this town is that in order to give the air conditioning some chance of working in the incredible heat they keep the front door locked and the customers go in the small door at the back emerging into the offices behind the counter. You then greet the staff and go through the hatch in the counter to become a customer!
By now in a sort of heat haze daze we found our way back through the market to the first bank where the very kind bank worker locked up his till and escorted us towards the right bank! By now we had the hang of it and confidently went round the back to the staff entrance and walked in. No one looked surprised. We greeted the staff, went through to the customer part, got some money and then back out through the staff entrance.

We then bought a box of 12 large bottles of water, which we thought may, in some small part, replace some of the fluid we had lost walking around!
We liked Kayes as no one hassled us (probably too hot to bother) and everyone we spoke to was helpful.

Back in the Land Rover we put the air con on full and after an hour had managed to get the temp down to 33 C! Setting off towards Bamako we found that the road to the capital city is a rough piste and progress was slow.

Interesting road into village

Following the river

Towards nightfall we were nowhere in particular so it had to be bush camping. A passing cattle herder enquired if we really wanted to camp in the middle of nowhere and invited us to his village but we explained we were English and that seemed to satisfy him!
Once night falls it starts to cool down (comparatively) and the tent is very airy so we can be very comfortable.

Day 82 01.04.05

Up early to avoid heat.

Breakfast at the bush camp

Road rough piste and went through lots of villages. Took wrong turning in a couple of the villages and had to be led out by youths. Having read in the book and on other people's websites how difficult this road is to follow, we weren't surprised that we got quite lost. However we ended up being directed onto a small track, which was much smoother than the main one we had been following.
The villagers here asked us to take an old lady with us to Bouffalabe as they had no means of getting her there, and we felt really sad to say no, but we were not confident of getting there by the evening and as Malcolm and Thorsen can testify, it is a bit cramped trying to fit passengers in. We are often asked for a lift and always say no but this was a particularly isolated place with little or no passing traffic and she did look so hopeful.

At first we were unsure if the small track was going to be all passable in the Land Rover but in spite of some 'interesting sections' which demanded foot reconnaissance, it was fine.

Negotiating dry river bed

The bonus of being off the beaten track was seeing a huge troop of Baboons which crossed just in front of us.

Baboons crossing

We had also seen some early in the day drinking at the river.

Baboons drinking at the river

Eventually we found our way to the ferry to cross the river near Bouffalabe.

Waiting for the ferry

As we crossed we could see Hippos in the distance but too far away for good photos. This place is the confluence of 2 huge rivers, which together join to form the Senegal river.

Senegal river

We somehow missed Bouffalabe completely and were glad we didn't have the old lady with us!

Manatili is the site of a huge hydroelectric scheme with a huge dam and lake the size of lake Geneva. Electricity goes to Mali, Senegal and Mauritania. There is a large workers compound, which is like a village with blocks of rooms. Since the construction finished some of these are empty and are let out overnight. As there is no office you just have to keep asking and eventually a very helpful man turns up with some keys.

As it is a power station with a huge lake there is no shortage of either water or electricity. The apartment was basic but good price and everything worked including the all important air con. There was the first washing machine we had seen in Africa!

Manatili workers accommodation

In all of the countries we have been in so far, outside of the towns (and sometimes in them) water comes from wells. Unless you live within walking distance of a river, every drop of water used has to be first either pulled up or pumped up and for most people it is a daily occupation. It seems from what we have observed that it is mostly the task of the women to get the water. (Water containers are highly prized and when we have bought bottled water we have learnt not to throw away the bottles as they are highly desirable and we have had children fighting over them.)

Having found for ourselves how hard it is to keep ourselves and our clothes clean we can only salute the women of Africa who always look so good and have a ready smile and a wave even when burdened with a load being carried so gracefully on their head and a baby on their back.

It remains harder to have any meaningful contact with women as we are also handicapped by our inadequate French.

Day 83 02.04.05

Up early again to get going before it got too hot but plan foiled as only road out was closed due to a problem with a lorry on the hill. Had to hang around until noon.

Finding some shade

Got to Kita and decided to try to reach Bamako before nightfall. However the road had the worst corrugations so far which slowed us down.
Just as we were thinking we wouldn't get to Bamako and should look for somewhere off the road to bush camp we came across a couple of men in a pickup which had broken down. Amadou spoke a bit of English. He was extremely worried about being stranded and we ended up turning round and towing him back to the nearest large village. By then it was almost dark so Amadou translated for us that we needed somewhere to park up and camp.
The villagers went to some trouble to clear a path for us into one of the compounds and were very interested to see how the tent unfolded. Amadou insisted on paying the villagers on our behalf as he was so glad not to be stranded for the night. We were parked quite near the village disco but we can sleep anywhere now!

Day 84 03.04.05

Up early so managed to exit without too much of an audience.

Morning in the compound

Found the Auberge with no trouble following the excellent directions from Debbie and Martin. Warm welcome from Mirian (who speaks excellent English) and Jean Bakir. We had the option of camping here but all our things are filthy from the constant dust and we need a break from the heat.

Lovely air con room with bathroom in their lovely garden.

Auberge Kaira So

Great room

We will stay a few days while we get our Ghana visas and have a rest from the travelling in such heat. Apparently it is hot even by their standards!
Later as we sat down to eat with the family it started to rain which is the first rain we have seen since Morocco and hopefully will cool things down.

Day 85 04.04.05

To Ghana embassy to apply for visa.
Can pick them up in 2 days time.

A chance to get things cleaned up. We have been enveloped in dust over and over as we travel. On coming vehicles are unavoidable.

About to be enveloped

We create our own dust and feel quite sorry for cyclists and moped riders and walkers and donkey carts we pass.

Our dust

Twisters are quite common and this one passed right over us (quite a surprising experience) leaving all sorts of leaves and twigs stuck to the Landy.

Twister

We quite often see them in the distance

Another one

Visit the Pictures page for more pictures.

Day 86 05.04.05

Lovely day. Did nothing in particular!

At Kaira So

Day 87 06.04.05

Good internet café next to a good supermarket so got stocked up.

Went at the appointed time to get our passports with our Ghana visas and surprise! 'The consulate has them. He is not here. He will not be here until tomorrow. He will be here at 9 0 clock'. So much for an early start tomorrow. (Ghana Embassy N12 37.980 W008 01.955)

Mirian took us to the artisan markets where we saw all sorts of things being made and haggled for a few things. The leather goods and materials are particularly interesting. The car broke down and within seconds a good-natured posse had gathered to help push it.
Life is lived on the streets here and it is impossible to describe just how crowded the roads are. All through the centre they are lined with stalls selling everything you could imagine (and some you couldn't) from shoes to buckets to mopeds. These take up the pavement and you thread your way through as the traffic -cars, loaded van taxis mopeds and top heavy bicycles - push through the middle. They park wherever there is a possibility. At the same time the roads are being redone and there are gaping ditches 2 foot deep with occasional planks across over which people go with everything.
The football crowds ripped all the traffic lights down last weekend after Mali was knocked out of the African cup. Policemen try to bring order at some junctions with frantic whistling and gesticulations but at other junctions everyone pushes forward hooting madly.

When we drove into Bamako on the first day we didn't realise that usually they have traffic lights and just thought it was a crazy place. One of the policemen saw us raised his eyebrows then his hand and blew his whistle. We were tired and didn't want another police check. Then he laughed and waved us on. What a joker! But we were impressed he could have a laugh in the middle of all that chaos.
In the middle of everything there are constant small courtesies such as someone who seeing you having a problem with the flow of people through a small gap stands back and beckons you through.

Day 88 07.04.05

We give the consulate time to have his breakfast and arrive at the Ghana embassy at 10.00. Surprise! 'The consulate is not here. He will be here soon.'
After returning twice we sat down to wait and on his return they were done within 5 mins.

Having carefully wrapped and sealed a parcel home, when we arrived at the post office they directed us to take it to the customs man who then wanted to see inside it. We carefully unwrapped everything, he looked at one thing and said it is ok and started reading his newspaper. We rewrapped it at another desk in the post office behind which there was a woman asleep on the floor.
The great thing about here is that so many things we would consider strange back home are ok so any eccentricities we may have pass without comment!

Day 89 08.04.05

We took our leave of Jean-Bakir and Mirian.
This is a great place to stop off on an overland journey. They offer camping and rooms in an oasis of calm away from the hubbub of Bamako. They went out of their way to help us and we are very grateful. To get there;

Jean-Bakir Bertet 
N 12 36.145
W 07 56.121
Cell - 674 3230
Home - 220 4187

Directions:
- Pass over the Ponte dei Martir (R7 until the Torre D'Afrique) - everyone will know the roundabout at the Torre D'Afrique.

Torre de Afrique

- Turn left for 2km in direction of Segou - turn left at a small petrol station (see GPS) and drive down side road. - On the left is an open area with trucks and cars (like a garage) - directly opposite is a red gate - this is it!

If lost or in doubt, feel free to phone him and he will come collect you. Thanks Martin and Debbie we followed this and got straight there.

Today an uneventful journey marked by clouds of white butterflies all the way. Mostly good tarmac road. When we stopped off the road for a break it was great to spot a Golden Oriole.

Golden Oriole

although frustratingly difficult to get a photo as it was in some dense woodland where there were lots of little flies and as usual it was incredibly hot.

When we got to Sikasso it was getting late so we drove to the best hotel and asked if we could camp in the car park which was fine by them! They told us we were the 4th English couple to do this. Here they don't think 'out of the box' they just didn't know there was a box and if the eccentric English want to camp in the grounds, why not?

Hotel

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