Main Diary Page.  France Days 3 - 6.  Spain Days 7 - 17.
Mauritania Day 46 -55.  Senegal Days 56 - 60.
Gambia Days 61 - 79.  Mali Days 80 - 89
Burkina Faso Days 90 - 93  Ghana Days 94 - 138
South Africa Page 1 Days 139 - 168  South Africa Page 2 Days 169 -190  Namibia Days 191 - 214  Botswana Days 215 - 242
Zambia Days 243 - 259   Malawi Days 260 - 266   Tanzania Days 267 - 281   Kenya Day 282 - 292   Uganda Days 293 - 313   Tanzania Days 314 - 326   most recent entry

Day 18 29.01.05

Caught the 10 00 ferry for the crossing from Algerians to Cueta. Fast and modern, it only took 30 minutes.

Drove through Cueta (still Spain) to the border where Steve and Martin went through the well documented tedium of visiting various windows in a row of small white buildings to hand in, have stamped and eventually returned all the documents to do with us and our vehicles, all aided and abetted by a self appointed helper. Debbie and I sat tight in the vehicles surreptitiously taking photos (and getting told off by an official for doing so.) Then at last we were in Africa.

As we drove along the sun was out and we started to soak up the sights. There were all sorts of things for sale by the side of the road.

We stopped in a lay-by to have our lunch. The basket sellers spotted us from afar and hurried along to try to sell us a basket. Little did they know that we already had become exasperated by having way too much stuff and needed to offload some. They were extremely surprised to be presented with a coffee pot and rather puzzled that we didn't want a basket. They also offered us a round white gooey looking food, which we surmised may be goat's cheese and sadly also declined on possible health risk grounds.
We were trying to boil up the Kelly kettle for some tea, but with little success. The Kelly kettle is about the size of a large vacuum flask with a hollow middle. The outside has 2 layers and the water is poured in so it is between the 2 layers. A small fire is lit in the base and the heat travels up the hollow middle and heats the water. We could get the fire going but then it just petered out despite us having found some good flammable vegetation.

Fire lighting was obviously an area of expertise for the basket/cheese women. In the nicest possible way they indicated that we were using the wrong sort of sticks for the fire. They got down and blew some life into the embers and then enthusiastically dropped the right sort of stick down the middle until the flames were coming out the top. Success - we soon had boiling water for our tea and were so pleased with ourselves we boiled up some more for the flask. Our tutors seemed pleased we had learnt so quickly! It seemed a suitable exchange - a lesson in Kelly Kettle fire making for a coffee pot.

We found the campsite in Larache quite easily as we were following Martin and Debbie and they had the GPS coordinates. It is on the edge of town and seemed to be provided free. It soon filled up with large camper vans. It is probably easier for the locals to provide a campsite rather than have all these foreigners driving round lost looking for somewhere to stay.

Day 19 30.01.05

Woke up to more really cold weather. Decided to move on down South to Sale, which is across the river from Rabat. Arrived at the campsite and amazingly it is warm enough to sit out with only about 4 layers on. The Campsite owner (who is from Somerset) said there had been a frost here yesterday and yes it was the coldest she had known it! We may seem to be obsessed with the weather but when you are camping in a supposedly warm country and are too cold to think most of the time it does become something of an obsession.

The campsite is in a great position for visiting both Sale and Rabat with high walls round it for security. To reach Rabat there is a rowing boat ferry, which we intend to use tomorrow. We have to go into Rabat to visit some embassies to get our visas for onward travel. This afternoon we will visit the internet café which is handily round the corner so 3 of us are tapping away madly on our laptops.

Day 20 31.01.05

We used the rowing boat ferry across the river from Sale to Rabat. It was an admin day. Went to the Mali embassy to hand in passports for visas. We have to return the next day to pick them up. Enjoyed a coffee in a courtyard outside a patisserie in the sun. Heat at last!

We walked along to the Burkina Faso embassy to get the information for getting the visas from there tomorrow.
As we came back to Sale we were enticed into a fish café on the river bank and enjoyed a meal of freshly caught and cooked fish. (see video on www.bigsky-adventures.com)
Steve very keen to fix the speedometer cable so took out old one ready to source a replacement tomorrow as unable to fix it since it had fractured about half a metre from the transfer box. Rang Robert in King's Lynn to check the options. Thanks Robert for your advice.

Day 21 01.02.05

Today we had to go back to the Mali embassy. To pick up our passports and then on to the Burkina Faso embassy to leave our passports there for the visas. We returned in the afternoon to pick them up to be told that the man who signs them isn't there so we have to go back tomorrow. Getting to know the embassy area quite well…even telling the taxi drivers which way to go!

We enjoyed wandering round the medina, tempted to buy a few items but the landys are full enough at this stage of the trip!
The guy at the campsite desk was able to find a new cable for £20 and delivered it to the door! Steve and Martin popped it in and we will find out tomorrow when we drive to Casablanca if it works!

We have met several other overlanders at this campsite and gleaned a fair amount of useful information about conditions ahead. The cold weather seems to be fairly widespread unfortunately. Our German neighbour has come from Fez where it was 8 deg below!

Visit the Pictures page for more pictures

Day 22 02.02.05

Debbie and I travelled by taxi across Rabat to the Burkina Faso Embassy to pick up the visas. By the time we got back the wagons were ready to roll so we set of to Casablanca. We have to go there to visit the Mauritanian embassy to get more visas. Not too long a drive on the motorway and managed to take the right road into Casablanca.

Found the embassy, got the forms but were not able to hand them in and have been instructed to be back at 8am. Fortunately the campsite is just around the corner. Have met up with 4 Swiss overlanders who are planning a trip round Mauritania, hoping to do some trekking etc.

This campsite has had a poor write up from other overlanders but it is quite pleasant with lots of trees and hot showers. The facilities could be cleaner but everything works.

Day 23 03.02.05

An early start and 8 of us walked to the Mauritanian embassy for 8 am. The Swiss paid extra to have their visas back today (sensible them!!) but we said we would wait until tomorrow. On the way back to the campsite we passed a patisserie. Well we didn't pass it. We went in and gave quite a lot of thought to the selection of croissants with various fillings.

We decided to see the sights of Casablanca. The Grande Mosque is the largest Mosque in Africa and the 3rd largest in the world. As it is on the other side of Casablanca we had to go by the most common form of public transport here -the Petite taxi. We got the hang of this in Rabat. There are 2 taxi systems the Grand and the Petite. The Grand taxis (Mercedes) hang out at ranks so you have to find a taxi rank before you can get one. They carry as many people as they can cram in and don't seem to respond to hailing.
The Petite taxis (mainly Fiat unos) zoom around and you can hail them. The P taxis are only allowed to carry 3 people so if there are 4 of you you have to have 2 taxis. We have now got it down to a fine art hailing 2 at once. However we then have to make sure they both go to the same place. The taxi drivers seem to have quite a lot of difficulty finding places and in Rabat we found that we had to get them to go to the right district and then direct them ourselves which we were able to do once we had sussed out where the embassies were. We tell them what we want and they scratch their heads and look puzzled. Then they get out and have a lively discussion with the other driver about these crazy foreigners and where it might possibly be that they want to go. Then one decides he knows and he leads and the other follows. During the journey if they find themselves beside another Petite taxi they wind the window down to tell them they are carrying crazy foreigners to an obscure destination and get further directions. Usually it all works and we end up in the right place.

The Grand Mosque seemed to be an easy destination being the most famous thing in Casablanca and the taxi drivers didn't need to confer and set off independently dropping us off on completely different sides of the mosque.Our Morocco book had given the wrong time for the tour and we were hurried in and managed to catch up with the English-speaking tour guide. She was lovely and extremely patiently went over again all the information she had just told everyone else. The mosque was a beautiful combination of simplicity and intricate detailed decoration. Disappointingly the photos of the inside didn't come out too well and we found that in all our photos of the outside the tower looks as if it is leaning. It is right on the shore of the Atlantic and is very impressive.

We then attempted to see some more of the sights of Casablanca. However the map in the book was as puzzling to the Moroccans as it was to us.
We had read that the Villa des Arts was worth visiting for contemporary Moroccan art. We set off to find it, helped on the way by various people who tried to point us in the right direction. We were trying to find a grand taxi rank so we could all go together in one taxi, as we didn't have an exact address. We walked for a long way until finally deciding to get the Petite taxis. Ah yes the first driver knew where it was. He already had a passenger but no problem. He urged us to get in. We got in and followed by Martin and Debbie in their taxi proceeded to drive round in a big circle to drop off the other passenger, then we passed the exact spot we had got into the taxi. Looking back we could see M and D and their driver looking as bemused as we were. Eventually the taxi pulled up triumphantly at the Ecole des Arts. 'Non' we said. We wanted Villa des Arts. The driver was a bit down hearted but after lots of conflab we decided to try walking again.
We now had the information that it was opposite the police station. We were more able to get directions to the police station than the Villa des Arts although people were a bit surprised we were asking for it.
By now we had seen several different areas of Casablanca. Like all large cities the old and the new, the rich and the poor go hand in hand.
We have found the Moroccan people to be very good humoured and helpful. We have not felt hassled even in busy places.

Suddenly we saw it. Villa Des Arts. We had made it….. and…. it was closed. It was closed for installation of the new exhibition. The guard at the gate was very amused at our expressions and invited us through the gate to take photos of the closed sign.

After that we felt we had seen enough of Casablanca and returned to the campsite. Just outside the campsite gates are a row of shops selling meat and fruit and veg. They are used to the strange buying habits of Europeans from the campsite and are very laid back as we discuss what the various unfamiliar vegetables might be. We rewarded ourselves for our long walk with steak for supper.

We are eating very well as fresh food is so easy to get.

Day 24 04/02/05

We had been instructed to pick up the Mauritanian visas at 1pm. At 1pm we were told to come back at 3 pm. At 3 pm Debbie and I waited with a growing crowd of people outside the embassy. More and more vehicles arrived and more people but the gate to the Embassy stayed firmly shut. People enquiring to the guard were told you just have to wait. At 4pm Steve and Martin took over the waiting duties and at 7 pm an important personage drew up, apologised to the 50 or so people waiting and the visas were handed out. It looks as if we will be spending another night in Casablanca.

It starts to get cold around 5 even if the day has been sunny. Debbie and I now have a system of using our metal drinking water bottles as hot water bottles and we have them tucked down inside our clothes. We renew the hot water when we go to bed!

Visit the Pictures page for more pictures

Temporary update for 7Feb

Travelled from Casablanca to El Jadida on the 5th. On the 6th had a lovely journey further down the coast. We got off the road and drove along some tracks by the sea. Apparently isolated it didnt take long to be surrounded by children when we stopped. They came running from miles away! the coastline here is beautiful with cliffs and sandy beaches. We are at a campsite in Essaouira which is very picturesque with huge sandy bay with surf and a fish harbour. We bought fresh Sea Bass for supper yesterday. Today the men are staying on the campsite to do important things to the vehicles while Debbie and I have walked into town to hit the medina where there are endless interesting retail opportunities

Temporary update 8th and 9th Feb

We woke up to a very wet campsite and it continued to rain so we had to pack the tent up wet. Said goodbye to our Dutch neighbours who have given us so much useful information on routes in Morrocco and swapped books with an English couple we have met in a few campsites along the way and set off for the next stage.

Travelled to Marrakesh and gradually the mountains came into view in the distance complete with snow. The landscape was very open and the ground very stony. It must take generations to clear the ground enough for crops. As before, in the countryside the main form of transport is donkey or horse and cart.
Arriving in Marrakesh we found the 'campsite' which we had been told about by several people. It is right in the centre next to the medina. It started life as a car park and the owners discovered that the campervan brigade liked to stay overnight in it because of the location. So they have added 2 hole in the ground toilets and a tap. It is also used by the local traders who bring goods in by lorry and distribute it to local traders with horse and cart.
We set off for the famous square and the medina. Not long before we were being cheerfully relieved of Dirhams by the snake charmers and the food stalls!!
We spent a good hour and a half with Said in his carpet shop. It was warm and a rest from the hustle and bustle. . He speaks extremely good English and it was interesting to learn a bit more about the Morrocan way of life. (And yes we bought a small Kilim)

The night was extremely cold and we were up with the sunrise to find a frost on the tent. Martin got the kettle on and we got going. The early morning light gives everything here a rosy glow as all the buildings are pink.

We have stopped off in an internet cafe to collect emails and are heading for the mountains.

Morocco continued