Morocco Day 35 to Day 45

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Day 35 15.02.05

We set off with Michele driving. It was our turn to lead and we enjoyed another day driving through very dramatic scenery,climbing to 1600 metres at one point.

We stopped near the top in an isolated lay by to photograph the view. Hah! You are never that far from a Moroccan. They were cunningly concealed amongst the rocks on the other side of the road and as soon as we stopped they leapt out and with one bound were with us. As soon as we were aware of them we turned back to the vehicles but too late!! One of them reached deep into the folds of his Jellaba and triumphantly pulled out ……a green and orange iguana. Mistaking our horrified expressions for interest he then proceeded to pull out another one. Proffering them towards us he said 'iguana - nice photo'. We managed to outflank him and scrambled into the landys. One of the others got to the window and thrust in a small green basket full of fresh dates. He gave us his best smile revealing 2 rows of brown teeth and said 'toute 10 Dirham'. He looked disbelieving as we tried to pull away. He indicated we would get the basket as well! Sadly his association with iguana man had destroyed any appetite we may have had and we left them there in our dust and diesel fumes. Hiding in rocks with 2 iguanas down your jellaba is a precarious way to make a living!

As we approached Ouarzazate we decided to avoid the crowds and bush camp in the mountains. We eventually found a suitable place and waited for sunset to put up the tents so as not to attract attention.

Michele and Debbie did a sterling job lighting an open fire burning very dried dung, as the only fuel available, and baking potatoes in foil. Some women were collecting herbs in the next valley but we were blissfully undisturbed.

Temporary update.
Day 36 16th February

Drove to Marakech.
Found better campsite than last time slightly out of town.
Continue to have problems with clutch fluid.
Mange to locate a garage with the help of Darrins website www.roamingyak.org which has excellent directions.
Arrange to take Land Rover in tomorrow.

Day 37 17th February

Steve spends the entire day at the extremely efficient and helpful garage. The problem is bigger than first appeared and the master clutch cylinder and the slave cylinder have to be replaced. Steve dons his overalls and appears to have had a great day!! He also managed to cure the terrible squeak on the back door. The garage mechanic refurbished the parts they took out and we now have them as spares.
Meanwhile M, M & D go into Marrakech to meet up with Colin and Wendy who have travelled out for a holiday and kindly brought out some things for all of us.
Spent a sunny afternoon in the campsite doing the domestic chores and reading the English newspapers that Colin had brought.

Day 38 18th February

Setting off south now for the last of Morocco and on to Mauritania in a couple of days time.

Day 38 18.02.05

The main road from Marrakech to Agadir was an interesting one. It was the busiest road we have travelled and climbed up to about 1600 m. On the descent we met convoys of lorries coming up. The first time we were forced off the road by an overtaking oncoming lorry we very Britishly said 'that was a bit much". After it had happened 2 or 3 times it dawned on us that this was how they got up the hill. It was like driving down the wrong side of a dual carriageway in the face of the oncoming traffic.

These big articulated lorries just put their lights on to announce their intention and piled on through, forcing oncoming traffic onto the gravel verge which was about wide enough. This went on for miles. Added interest was provided by the Mercedes taxi who, frustrated by us continually slowing down, overtook only to find himself face to face with a lorry. The dust cloud as he flew onto the verge was impressive.

Agadir was the most modern Moroccan town we have visited. Rebuilt in the 60s after an earthquake it has a zone touristique and visitors are well catered for.(i.e. lots of ways to spend money). With no space in the municipal campsite so we ended up in a semi official site where they were so impressed with the landys they didn't charge us. There were no facilities so we had to spend some time in nearby cafes. - no great hardship!

Day 39 19.02.05

Towards Tafroute the scenery was stunning. The reds, ochres, and greens of the hills give a beautiful background to the almond trees with their pale pink blossoms.

Almond blossom

The villages are always built of the local earth (mud bricks) and stone so they blend into the surroundings.

Hilltop village

The tree-climbing goats were remarkable although when we mentioned them later to someone he said 'well yes of course if they have eaten what is on the ground they have to climb the trees'!

Tree climbing goats

Debbie had a connection to a family in Tafroute through a friend in England and Lahcen had been pre warned of our arrival. He came and introduced himself soon after we arrived.

The campsite was very small and we set up next to it with the usual campervans, paying so we could use the campsite facilities. There was an amazing view of the surrounding hills. Our neighbour was a circus performer who kept the local kids (and us) amused.

Circus tricks

Visit the Pictures page for more pictures

Day 40 20.02.05

It was a very cold night with a thick layer of ice on the solar panel in the morning. We woke early with the usual cacophony of the call to prayers, barking dogs and the campervans beeping as they reversed ready for their early starts.

Lahcen invited us for lunch with his family.
We really enjoyed meeting him, his wife Khahadija and his 4 children and sharing some delicious couscous.

Lahcen had been a great cyclist in his younger days, covering some amazing distances on his bike. He showed us some of his photos and we learnt a lot about the locality. As usual Steve was working hard doing most of the translating between French and English.

Later Lahcen and the 2 boys took us for a walk up into the hills to see the views.

Tafroute sits in a natural amphitheatre in the hills and was one of our favourite places so far. We wished we had more time to spend there.

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Day 41 21.02.05

Steve's 50th birthday.

Steve opened some cards from home in the morning then we got on the road.
Visited the famous painted rocks, which was an opportunity for some off roading.

The locals have mixed views about the rocks, which were painted blue by Jean Verame, a Belgian

At least they are not visible from the road.
We had been recommend to go to the thermal springs at Abaynne by just about everyone we talked to in Tafroute and thought that being warm would be a good treat for Steve on his birthday!!

On arrival at the campsite Steve was surprised when out of the back of the landy appeared a double choc chocolate cake complete with candles which, with Debbie deftly wielding a windshield tea towel we managed to keep alight long enough for him to blow out.

For all of us who had had little contact with hot water recently it was wonderful to step into the naturally heated water and just bob about in the pool until we were completely wrinkled. We followed it up with a tagine in the hotel restaurant. We took along a couple of bottles of Moroccan wine we had been saving for the occasion. The Moroccan wine we have had has been very good.

Alcohol is not on offer in most of the places we have been but they are ok about bringing your own with no charge for corkage.

Being able to speak to Andrew and Rhona completed the evening and Steve's unusual birthday was declared a success.

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Day 42 22.02.05

Feel we need to push on South now.
A quick stop in town to visit the boulangerie/patisserie. This is a great legacy of the French, which the Moroccans have made their own. Not always easy to spot as in a small town they are sometimes just a doorway.

Follow the scent of baking bread and there is a choice of baguettes or round loaves and if you are lucky some croissants or pain au chocolat. Great for the mid morning stop.

We can understand why so many people we have met come back to Morocco each year. It is stunningly wildly beautiful. It is a country of great contrasts from the snow covered mountains to the plains and deserts.. The Mercedes sharing the tarmac with donkeys, the modern articulated lorries and the colourful painted trucks piled high with goods. Every possible resource is used.. There are children everywhere, sometimes a nuisance but mostly cheerfully cheeky. The people are friendly and we wish our French was better.

Stopped for the night at a great location on a cliff top overlooking a bay where a river comes down to the sea.

The river is fairly dried up forming a shallow lagoon where flamingos idly stand about.

Collected loads of driftwood of the beach and got a good fire going just in time for some local fishermen to stop by and offer us some fish, so freshly caught, one was still flapping. Baked potato and fish cooked on the fire to the accompaniment of the waves crashing in on the beach below. Perfect.

Day 43 23.02.05

Just about to set off when an Italian couple in a huge Fiat truck rolled up. They are looking for company across Mauritania. Their truck dwarfs our landys. We set off in convoy to all fill up with cheap diesel 10 k further on and then heading on to Laayoune for the night.

Travelling along the beach road there is miles of sand and scrub and several old shipwrecks along the shore.

and then later to look at a wreck and realised the sand was covered with dead locusts.

Camped on the beach south of Layounne

Beach camp

Day 44 24.02.05

Long boring drive.
The truck got a puncture Luca and Semina got their overalls on and with everybody's help and the assistance of 2 policemen it was soon sorted.

Truck puncture

Driving into strong wind so took turns to lead.

Windswept road

We camped on the beach near the site of an old shipwreck.

Shipwreck

Flypast

Sunset over
the sea

Camping with
the Belgians

Day 45 25.02.05

Pressed on south on road with drifting sand through scrubland. Dakhla is on a peninsula and the sea on the left as we drove down was shallow and the most amazing colours. We were waved down by a policeman standing by an old car on the road which had run out of petrol. The only petrol we had was in a can for our cooker but we gave to the driver. We were puzzled as to how the policeman had got there as there was no police car in sight. However when the guy got his car going the policeman got in and off they went.

The campsite was ideal. Not too busy and we took the opportunity to sort out our washing.

Washing at the campsite

In the evening we all piled into the truck and went into town for camel kebabs and to stock up with supplies for the next few days in the desert.
Stocked up with camel meat, fresh fruit and veg and plenty of olives. They have a great selection of olives in huge piles and it is hugely enjoyable tasting them all.
When we got back there was a heavy dew already which had saturated the almost dry washing!

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