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NAMIBIA
Day 191 20.07.05
Kamieskroon to Aus
560k
Stayed Klein Aus Vista Campsite
S26 39.347
E016 14.050
Woke to drizzle and another grey day.
Border crossing no hassle.
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As we crossed the border the weather brightened and the further into Namibia we went, the better it got. The scenery became more desert like with long straight roads.
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Namibia ahead
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Skirting round the Fish River Canyon we headed for Aus.
The scenery was spectacular as we drove through the Orange River Valley.
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Orange River
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We hadn't bargained, though on the final 100k of road works, which slowed us right down as we ploughed along an extremely dusty sand and gravel road. Every so often there was a stretch of tarmac signed as a dust reduction stretch. This was to enable overtaking as otherwise it was impossible because of the huge dust clouds following every vehicle. We found that the lorry drivers were quite considerate and when they could see you were there they slowed down to enable overtaking.
We were glad to eventually reach the campsite in the dark. It is a very well organised German run site.
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Day 192 21.07.05
Aus to Mariental
420k
Stayed Hardap Dam Recreation Camp
S24 28.898
E17 50.358
We drove along to see the wild horses that Aus is famous for. I supposed I had imagined them galloping romantically through the desert but of course when we spotted them in the distance they were ordinary looking horses standing around doing nothing in particular!
It was a long days drive. Mostly on gravel roads through the most stunning desert scenery. It changed from the beautiful colours of the wide open sandy plains to the harsher browns of the mountains.
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Namibian desert
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Desert rocks
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We spot some extraordinary giant nests. These turn out to be made by very small but industrious birds. On the underside are masses of small entrances and there is a continuous stream of birds carrying bits of grass to add to the edifice.
If there are no trees they utilise the telegraph poles.
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Giant nests
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Masses of small entrances
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Utilising the telgraph poles
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The recreation resort is a strange place based on a dam with very cheerful staff and not many campers! It has a game park attached.
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Day 193 22.07.05
Mariental to Windhoek
250k
Stayed Schalbenheim Apartments
S22 34.483
E017 04.803
We got up at dawn to see the animals in the game park. As we drove round there was just us. Arriving up at the viewpoint for our breakfast, the view was amazing over the countryside and the water, but the only other living thing in sight was a small (but kind of interestingly camouflaged) beetle. It was a peaceful start to the day before hitting the road again.
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Viewpoint
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Camouflaged beetle
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En Route we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.
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Landmark
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We got to the apartments in Windhoek in good time to do some major sorting out to turn our 2 person land Rover into a 4 person one for Andrew and Steph's holiday with us.
The apartments are ideal as they are in the centre of town with good security and extremely helpful owners. We are able to leave some of our things here to make room for Andrew and Steph.
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Day 194 23.07.05
Windhoek Schwalbenheim Apartments (S22 deg 34.482 E17 deg 4.803)
Met Andrew and Steph at the airport. It is so good to see them after so long.
I need to sort out my camera as it has some marks on the inside lenses and we want to link up the lap top at an internet café so we set off for the town centre.
Go into a place which advertises itself as the biggest internet café in Africa (some sort of joke we presume when we go in). We enquire
"Is it possible to connect my Lap top please?'
'No"
"Can I try?"
"No"
Again we have met one of those African women who do not waste words.
After conflicting directions to the camera shop we find it is closed. We notice that all the shops are closing and are informed that all shops except supermarkets close at lunchtime on Saturday and do not open again until Monday morning! (by which time we will be on the road again).
Driving to the supermarket to stock up we find the car park has a height restriction and we can't get in. We drive around the block twice before finding another car park some way off.
We have been warned about the rate of car crime in Namibia so Andrew stays with the landy while we do the shop.
Later at the apartment we see that one of the other guests has had his car window smashed in a robbery that day.
An interesting introduction for Andrew and Steph to the frustrations of trying to get normal things done in Africa.
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Day 195 24.07.05
Windhoek to Etosha
Camp Okaukuejo
S19 10.900
E18 55.022
We have managed to free up the 2 back seats by storing a lot of our stuff but equipment for 4 people takes up a lot of space.
The roof hatch turns out to be an essential item. It is easier to climb in and out through that than to clamber over everything in the back. It also gives fresh air to the back seat passengers. However, unexpectedly, in the early morning there is a huge temperature difference between the front and the back and Andrew and Steph don more and more layers until they are hardly visible under coats hats towels and blankets!! As the sun climbs they warm up and gradually reappear.
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We drive along the straight roads through the scrub and desert until we eventually reach Etosha.
Within a few minutes of entering we see a curious combination of ostrich and zebra at a waterhole.
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Etosha Ostrich & zebra
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Days 196 - 198 25.07.05 - 27.07.05
Etosha
Camping at Okaukuejo (S19 deg 10.900 E15deg 55.022)
and Namatomi (S 18 deg 48.548 E16 deg 56.433)
Etosha is the most incredible place.
It is a huge national park- 22912 square kilometres of pristine wilderness with a variety of habitat around a huge pan which only floods every 4 or so years. It is mostly flat.
During the day we are free to drive ourselves around and there are miles of gravel tracks and relatively few other visitors.
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The animals are commonly found near the water holes but there are herds of zebra, wildebeest and other animals across the savannah. We are mesmerised by the number and variety of animals we see. It is great to have the roof hatch and we take it in turns to be the 'spotter'.
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Huge variety
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At Okaukuejo campsite the water hole is separated from the campsite by a low wall and fence and is floodlit at night. Everyone gathers at dusk to watch the animals. Complete silence reigns in the audience.
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By our second evening we had got the hang of this and pitched up for the show with our crisps and beer and chairs. Once there it is hard to leave. As soon as one set of animals leave another turns up. We sit, trying to munch quietly, while in front of us the sun sinks down and in front of the red glow parade elephants, rhino, giraffe zebra, jackals ,lions, springbuck, kudu, Oryx etc.
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Sundowner drinks
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Heavy drinkers
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It is hard to fit in normal activities like eating and sleeping and suffering from animal overload we need a couple of afternoons just chilling out.
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Over a few days we begin to understand in a rudimentary fashion the characteristics of the various animals. They just get on with life completely ignoring vehicles.
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Head to head
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Giraffe never approach the water hole directly. They come together from different directions to form a group of 3 or 4. They then approach in a meandering fashion pausing often to peer about for predators. One will often watch while the others drink.
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Zebra on the other hand bundle down in a herd pushing and jostling. They drink up and leave.
Elephants arrive in ones and twos and stay for ages standing round doing nothing in particular.
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Four in a row
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Lions don't care who is about they just stroll in and make themselves at home or set up an ambush.
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Lion in wait
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Right here
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Aw shucks - missed
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Etosha was a wonderful place to spend a few days and it would have been easy to spend much longer.
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Day 199 28.07.05
to Ondangwa
169k
Stayed Nakambali Museum Restcamp
S17 59.040
E016 01.392
We go north from Etosha into the most populated part of the country. However as the total population of Namibia is only 2 million even the large towns are mostly just one main road.
There are large herds of cattle and small native villages along the route.
The camp is the site of an old Finnish Mission Station established at the turn of the last century. It is a combination of information about the mission past and education about village life today. There are photos of the missionaries dressed in their full Victorian dress including top hat addressing the congregation. The original church has been reconstructed.
There is also a replica native village and the huts are used as accommodation.
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We camp while Andrew and Steph opt to stay in a hut.
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Accomodation
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We all enjoy a traditional meal of mealie meal porridge, roast chicken and spinach eaten from communal bowls with our fingers.
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Traditional meal
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Day 200 29.07.05
Ondangwa to 50 k past Ruacana
282k
Camped Kunene River Lodge
S17 21.263
E013 52.909
We stop at the supermarket on the outskirts of town. The security man follows us round. At the door everyone's shopping is scrutinised and the shoppers are patted down for contraband. Our shopping passes muster and they let us through without the body search.
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We continue north until we meet the Kunene River which forms the border between Angola and Namibia.
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Kunene River
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We are able to set up camp on the riverbank at the lodge campsite.
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Day 201 30.07.05
Kunene to Epupa
164k
Camped Epupa Falls Campsite
S 17 deg 00.122
E 13 deg 52.909
For a treat, it was decided to order breakfast on the sun-drenched deck overlooking the Kunene River and Angola. Unfortunately we had not ordered the night before, so it was defrosted and cooked whilst we packed up the land rover.
Eventually setting off by mid-morning, it wasn't long before we were flagged down by a local Himba tribesman, who wanted a lift. This was the home of the Himba people, the most distinctive local tribe who maintain a traditional lifestyle of cattle and goat farming. We found a space for him on the roof above the open hatch between some firewood and the spare wheel. Along the route, we were waved down and chased constantly by Himba children who have unfortunately resorted to shouting 'sweetie' and 'pen' and 't-shirt' at passing westerners. This is an unfortunate consequence of the increased tourism in the region which has led the otherwise self-sufficient local communities to search for easy handouts from visitors. Following local advice, we refrain from throwing sweets out the window to discourage begging and save local teeth from rotting.
We came across a couple of distinctively dressed Himba women with a baby, who flagged us down to ask for handouts. We exchanged some money, apples and an old t-shirt in exchange for the opportunity to photograph them. The women use a mixture of ochre and wood ash and herbs to make a paste. They plait their hair and cover themselves and their hair with the paste which gives them a very distinctive dark red/brown colour.
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They have distinctive body ornaments and jewellery and wear layered goatskin skirts which they stretch so that they curl. They are usually well built and look amazing. They smell good as well! One of them caught sight of herself in the wing mirror and spent some time admiring herself before asking could she have the mirror.
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Himba woman with baby
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After driving through the arid landscape, Epupa appears in the distance as an oasis of palm trees next to the river and falls.
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Epupa falls
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Andrew and Steph at Epupa falls
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We choose to camp at the community site, a beautiful spot next to the falls, although rather loud due to the cascading water.
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The showers were heated by burning wood underneath the tank, however the hot water the warden lit for us was stolen by a ruthless organised gang of 'other European' hot water thieves, leaving us to gingerly wash under the remaining cold water complaining loudly about people who were too lazy to light their own boiler! However any wash was welcome to remove the accumulated layers of dust.
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Showers with water heater
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Day 202 31.07.05
Epupa
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After an early breakfast, we met up with Thom, a local guide, who took us on an excellent walk along the river. As well as finding us a troop of vervet monkeys and four crocodiles, Thom tracked a snake, which we eventually caught up with in a bush.
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Snake
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He also explained the uses of the various plants.
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Himba malaria treatment
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The afternoon was spent relaxing next to the river and checking the Land rover, before setting up the fire for the evening's braai.
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Day 203 01.08.05
Epupa to Sesfontain
326km
Camped Fort Sesfontain
S19 deg 7.242
E 13 deg 37.092
After leaving Epupa behind us, we stopped at a Himba Demonstration village to discover more about their way of life, having stopped to give one of their residents a lift a few miles earlier.
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It was fascinating to see how they lived, maintaining much of their traditional lifestyle, whilst evolving to incorporate outside influences.
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One of the couples who lived there really enjoyed seeing their photos on the digital camera and I wished I had a means of leaving them with a photo as they got so much enjoyment from deciding how to pose and then viewing the result.
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It is hard to say whether the development of tourism has a positive or negative effect on their lives, as although providing extra revenue opportunities, it has the potential to destroy traditional practices and encourage laziness and begging, However this project was a good example of the Himba diversifying their income source to include visitors whilst positively maintaining their culture, and providing an interesting experience for us.
On our way out of the region, we made a quick stop at Opuwa, the Himba capital, which has a real frontier town feel. After declining the opportunities to drink at both the Arsenal and Manchester United bars, we settle for a diesel fill-up and some bread from the supermarket, although not before some eager street sellers relieved us of a few dollars for some locally made jewellery.
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Here also we have our first sight of the Herero people. This tribe were admonished by Victorian missionaries for their lack of clothing and they adopted Victorian dress which they then brightened up and now regard it as their traditional dress. The women wear long dresses over many layers of petticoats and matching horned hats.
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It was interesting to see them and the Himba people side by side.
We arrive late at Fort Sesfontain, and have 'Oryx Kievs' for dinner.
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Day 204 02.08.05
Fort Sesfontain to Palmwag
122km
Camped Palmwag Lodge
S 19 deg 53.215
E 13 deg 56.231
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We had been previously told of a clear warm natural pool with a waterfall in the area, although had conflicting reports of its location. Feeling in need of a cooling dip, we search out the pool at Ongongo (S19 08.423, E 013 49.163) along a rough 4x4 track 6km from Warmquelle village.
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Ford
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Upon arrival, we find a rough camp and a beautifully situated waterfall, feeding a 2 metre deep crystal clear plunge pool. It wasn't long before we were all jumping in to cool off in the midday sun.
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Andrew makes a splash
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After lunch, we reluctantly tore ourselves away to make the trip down to Palmwag, where we had a few cool beers as the sun set over the plains.
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Day 205 03.08.05
Palmwag to Uis
305km
White Lady B&B and Campsite
S21 deg 13.007
E14 deg 52.196
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After breakfast, we headed off to the Petrified Forest, where 280 million year old pine trees had settled and crystallised after being swept across from central Africa in floods, and had now turned to stone - an amazing phenomenon to see.
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Petrified log
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Also protected there, are the famous Welwitschia Mirabilis plants, native to Namibia, which can live (allegedly) for 2000 years.
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We proceeded to Twyfelfontain, where we were able to view the ancient bushman carvings in the rocks, which, carved 5000 years ago, are representations of local wildlife including lion, giraffe, elephant and most interestingly seals and penguins, proving that the bushman had travelled the long distance to the coast.
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Rock engravings
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We ended the day at Uis where we found the White Lady B&B and Campsite. The lure of a warm bed and ensuite shower was too strong to resist so we booked in for two nights. Nico and family took over the residence last year, and are making a fine effort in providing an excellent location to stay. Day 206 04.08.05
Uis
White Lady B&B and Campsite
At 6 in the morning, Nico got us up to fly us one by one in his microlite over to a nearby hill, where we shared a flask of tea while we watched the sunrise. Then he flew us one by one around the surrounding countryside and over the remains of the long closed tin mines. A different start to the day.
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Flight before sunrise
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Happy landings
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Brandenburg in the morning
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Went to the local internet café where they tried hard but failed to get the laptop to connect and had a problem getting their own computers to connect to the internet. Eventually we were able to read our emails. It is great to be able to catch up on news from everybody although the connection is so slow it takes us 45 minutes just to read them and this is after half an hour of trying to sort out the connection. Still it is the first internet café we have seen for 2 weeks.
Today is a special day for Uis as they are getting their cell phone mast switched on today a year after the mast was put up. Sure enough by the end of the day there is a signal.
A visit to the local supermarket finds the shelves bare of fresh produce. As we are leaving we see a small lorry arriving piled with fresh fruit and vegetables to stock the shelves.
2 hours later we return to get fresh produce to find once again empty shelves! The locals obviously know when the fresh stuff is arriving and the shop has been very busy since the delivery. We are a long way from anywhere here and fresh food is at a premium.
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At 5.30pm Nico rounds us up again. This time we drive to a nearby hill to watch the sun set over the Brandenburg mountains.
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Brandenburg at sun set
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On the way back we descend the hill by an unbelievably steep slope. Nico's land Rover disappears over the edge and we follow. (Another family from the accommodation videoed us coming down and we hope to be able to get a copy of the video at some point.)
It is a good thing we are leaving here tomorrow before Nico comes up with any more adrenaline pumping ideas.
If any young women out there want to meet a single, genuine, hard working, active guy with a wicked sense of humour and his own microlite you can contact him via
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Day 207 05.08.05
Uis to Windhoek
478k
Stay Schwalbenbeim apartments again.
S 22 deg 34.483
E 17 deg 4.803
An early start as we want to see the White Lady rock painting before driving to Windhoek.
Driving up into the Brandburg we stop to pick up Asah. He sits on the roof happy to get a lift as he has been waiting some time. He is starting a new job and has to meet his new employer. We take him all the way to the meeting point, a campsite in the middle of nowhere. It has no office and no one at the nearby lodge knows anything about him. He is incredibly anxious to get to the right place. Jobs are not that easy to get. We don't have the heart to abandon him there. We take him back to the main road where we mange to get a signal on the mobile. We ring his new employer for him. Yes he was in the right place and his contact is late. We take him back again to the campsite and reassure him that he is in the right place although it seems a crazy place to arrange to meet someone with no transport.
All this toing and froing has delayed us considerably but we tell ourselves we are building up karma.
When we get up to the Rock painting car park the sun is high in the sky. The guide tells us it is a 1.5 hour round walk there through the rocky mountain valley. I've already had some stick over the fact that I misread the guidebook and thought the painting was 40 ft high but in fact it is 40cm! Now there is some discussion over whether we can cut the time down and is a smallish rock painting worth the treck in the heat.
In the middle of this the guide announces he has a very bad headache so he can't take us as he might die.
We should go on our own and look out for Johnny another guide who is up there and do we have any medicine for a bad head. We postulate that too much beer causes headaches and he doesn't deny the connection but Steve returns to the Land Rover to fetch 2 paracetamol anyway.
We set off up the valley in the blazing sun and half an hour later red faced and hot we are looking at the rock paintings. The White lady was identified by a short sighted archaeologists in the 1940s and is in fact a man. These mountains have 100s of ancient bushman paintings but we don't have time to go on. We find Johnny who is already guiding someone but he points out some animal and other figures -he seems pretty bushed by the heat himself.
We set off back down the track and meet head ache guy leading a party of tourists along. He is cured by the miracle of Paracetamol. We tell him we are glad he is not going to die today and the tourists look slightly alarmed.
Back in the landy we set off on the long drive to Windhoek. We have a quick stop in Omaruru at the Kaffestube for toasted sandwiches and homemade cake which we can highly recommend.
Continuing now on tarmac we notice that the landy has developed a tendency to veer. We have experienced this before when the radius arm bushes split in Ghana. We stop and sure enough it has happened again. We continue at reduced speed but it gets worse. Steve uses cable ties in a temporary repair to keep the bushes together which improves it.
We have some Old Man EMU bushes which we can use as replacements tomorrow but it is a pain that it has happened now. What happened to the karma? It means we will have to try to locate further spares in Windhoek where we have learnt that everything closes down on Saturday lunchtime until Monday morning. Tomorrow is Saturday and we already have plans for it as it is Andrew and Stephs last day.
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Day 208 06.08.05
Windhoek
We change the radius arm bushes disappointed that they have split so soon. They were the only ones we could get in Ghana bought at great expense from the Land Rover main dealer. Now we have put in our spare OME bushes we will have to find some more to take with us as spares.
We are sad to say goodbye to Andrew and Steph as we wave them off at Windhoek.
Day 209 07.08.05
Windhoek
Monday morning and an early start to try to source all our needs in Namibia's capital. OME bushes were ordered by The Off Road Centre, S22 35.336 E17 05.160. Land Rover Windhoek were too pricey so we have another garage to try for a few Landy parts. We bought 2 new Goodyear MT/R's from Trent Tyres, 061-234101. Thanks Werner for all your help. They also managed to find the cause of the slow puncture on one of the new tyres purchased in ZA. A piece of grit had embedded in the outer edge of the tyre bead! A good rim clean and it seems ok.
No success in sorting out the camera though. Apparently there is no one in Namibia who is willing to service digital cameras and everyone in the camera shops is in agreement that we would have to go to Jo burg in South Africa. This is disappointing as I can see the mark on the low pass filter but the manual says on no account to touch it as it is very fragile, which of course is why the camera shops won't touch it.
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Windhoek
We have to wait for the OME bushes so we take the chance to stock up.
Helner who runs Schwalbenheim where we are staying is incredibly helpful in giving us advice on where to get things.
He told us about CYMOT and LR Parts CC a small shop with a large stock of Land Rover parts way cheaper than the main dealers. (Although Land Rover Windhoek didn't have the parts we wanted in stock they were also very helpful with advice.)
This is a great place to stay as it is so central and secure and has all facilities such as washing machines and we would recommend it.
We have now stocked up, (still waiting for the bushes) washed all our clothes and sent the website update off.
This was a marathon.
Their server was very small and if anyone else was using another computer in the internet café everything slowed to almost a halt. It took almost 3 hours to sort out.
We had been told we would need Botswana currency at the Botswana border so went into a FNB bank bureau de change to swap some Namibian dollars for Botswana Pula.
However we had got our money from a cash machine and hadn't obtained the Namibian dollars by changing another currency. Therefore we didn't have an exchange receipt. They wouldn't change the money we had because of this.
We tried at Ned Bank and they did agree to exchange our Namibian Dollars for Pula on production of the ATM receipt and a passport.
This is all to do with some African currency regulation which is to protect each country's reserves but takes no account of modern banking practice. Day 212 10.08.05
Windhoek to Otjiwarongo
Camp Westrand Farm campsite
S20 27.600
E16 32.577
268k
We get a phone call to say that there has been a public holiday in South Africa so the OME bushes we have been waiting for will not be here for another 2 days.
We are meeting Luca and Samena in Botswana and anyway we can't wait around any longer.
The Du Plessis family staying in the apartment next door to us are from Botswana. They have given us lots of advice about what to see in Botswana as well as telephone numbers if we need help while we are there. They tell us about Delta 4x4 in Maun Botswana and we phone to see if we can obtain the bushes there. It so happens that Loew is just off to SA to get some parts and he can get what we need. Arranging to pick them up in a few days in Botswana we are free to set off.
Arriving in Otjiwarongo we are directed to Westrand farm camp site. This is set on a slight rise surrounded by miles of countryside and a ring of mountains in the distance. We arrive in time to see the sky turn a hazy pink all around with the sunset. It is beautiful. They show us their latest project which is a bath surrounded on 3 sides with the open side overlooking the valley and the sunset. Sadly for us it is not plumbed in yet but for future visits it would be recommended.
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We are camping by the water tank and in the morning there is a continuous stream of birds visiting to drink.
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Thirsty work
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Day 213 11.08.05
Ojitiwarango to Rundu
Camp N'Kwazi lodge and campsite
S17 52.030
E19 54.437
500k
A long days driving to get us within reach of the Caprivi Strip.
As we near Rundu we see many people walking along the road with water containers in search of water. It seems they have to walk a long way for water. We have no idea how so many people have apparently settled in such a dry place.
Also here there are lots of wood carvings for sale on the road side. There are rows of carvings of airplanes all the same shape with a very pointed nose. Apparently these are modelled on the president's jet. Who would buy these we wonder. Day 214 12.08.05
Rundu to Caprivi Strip
Camp Ngepi camping
S18 06.946
E21 40.172
280k
We have heard from Luca that he and Sameena are at the Zambian border at the other end of the Caprivi Strip so we each start driving. Then coming towards us we see the familiar orange truck. It is great to meet up with Luca and Sameena again. We haven't seen them since Mauritania.
On the shore of the Okovango river Ngepi camp has very imaginative showers and toilets. It would be disconcerting if anyone went by in a boat. As it was all we saw on the river were the hippos at dusk.
to Botswana
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